“Sarees are like Indian women – so clever. From business meetings to first nights, from political talks to red carpets, from college farewells to Indian kitchens, they actually have many avatars”.
India is known for it’s tradition and culture. Saree is one of the great work of India. The beautiful sarees which makes a women beautiful and stylish reflects the dedicated work of these artisans. These artisans work day and night and make beautiful motifs on the fabric. One of the great work is Banarasi Saree.
Whenever you heard the word Banaras what is the first thing that comes in our mind. The ivory work and sculpture of banaras , it’s perfume and it’s silk fabric. Saree which every women need because of it’s quality of fit in every function . One of the saree which every women wants to try is Banarasi saree. Banarasi saree which every women love to wear in functions, parties, weddings and political talks. Saree make women more graceful and elegant. Banarasi saree has a great history and it reflects hard work of a artisans. The banarasi saree is very famous in India because it lightens up the beauty of a women and help her to look more graceful and elegant .
“Elegance, cuteness, beauty, traditional, modern, graceful, words fall short to describe a woman in a saree”.
“Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legend and looks twice as old as all of them put together.” – Mark Twain
The banarasi sarees are made in Varanasi and it is one of the finest saree of India. It is known for it’s zari Or silver and gold brocade, opulent embroidery and fine silk. It is made from silk and by intricate designs. Banaras is a one of the thriving sector of textile industry. Zari and Brocade one of the famous design of banarasi saree and it’s traces were shown in 19th century. In 1603 due to famine the silk weavers shifted from Gujarat and it started in Banaras in 17th century and they got excellence in their work in 18th and 19th century . In Mughal era brocades with the help of silver and golden threads showed it’s traces. The traditional banarasi sarees were made with cottage industries and about 1.2 million workers directly and indirectly associated with handloom industry around Varanasi i.e. Gorakpur, Jaunpur, Bhadohi, chandauli and Azamgarh districts.There are many designs of banarasi saree i.e. Jangla , Vaskat, Tanchoi, Cutwork, Butidar and tissue . But due to industrialisation Banasi saree is occurring loses as industries producing saree much faster at cheaper rate. But it can never match the quality of handloom work.
There are many varieties of Banarasi saree i.e. organza with silk and zari , Shattir , pure silk and Georgette
Katan is durable and lustrous saree ,it is one of the most extravagant saree . It is made from threads of pure silk which is twisted and after that it was woven . It maintains it’s durability for a longer period of time. It is known for it’s exquisite lustre. It is one of the glamorous saree that can be worn in special occasions. Katan came into existence during the mughal period. Women from Royal families were indulged in purchasing silk sarees .
There are many of katan sarees:
- -Katan Butidar : This is made from resham and gold butis.
- Katan Butidar Mina: Zari threads is used on this fabric.
- Katan Butidar Paga: It is made from resham and it have a buti work . It has a very wide pallu.
- Katan Brocade: Patterns is made up from gold threads.
It is one of the lightweight banarasi sarees . This fabric is used to make comtemporary designs in the sarees . It is one of the cost effective saree and affordable for everyone . It can also suitable for daily basis because of it’s lightweight in terms of fabric and designs.
Organza with silk and zari
These zari work came from silver and golden shades . This shows richness of the material and it’s impact. These rich and heavy designs don’t make this saree heavy . It has a prominent border and it is made from smooth, soft and shiny fabric
It has a light material and have gorgeous looks because of it’s flair. It has a light fabric and made from crepe yarn. It’s lush and delight appeal makes this saree the gorgeous saree.
In this saree Persian motifs are used to design patterns of distinct flower. The banarasi saree is made from the real gold and silver threads for the royal family. To make it affordable for everyone. Now it is replaced with gold and silver colour thread. This sarees have attractive designs and export around the world. Tissue sarees decorated with zari and it will add sheen in the saree. It have gorgeous border and paisleys are woven on pallu. Cutwork and jamdani sarees are almost similar. Creepers, jasmine, marigold flowers and leaves are the famous motifs of cutwork saree.Butidar sarees are decorated with threads of gold, silver and silk. Tanchoi saree have woven colourful weft patterns. They have large paisleys motifs and criss-cross patterns on border. Jangal sarees are made from threads of colourful silk and it have jangala motifs .
There are many techniques if weaving a banarasi saree :Kadiyal helps in making conrasting border. It requires dyeing of different colors. Kadwa is one of the laborious technique. In this no loose threads and no cutting. In this different motifs used on the same saree. Tanchoi involves multiple wefts. It has weaving patterns all over the saree. Jangla is one of the old practice. It has rich designing as jaals, creepers and flowers are designed over the saree.
This shows the richness of Banaras in terms of designing and how their work indicate the history . Their designing and artistic skills are incomparable. This shows how India is enriched with talents, artistic skills, nature love, dedicated and hard work.
There are many patterns of Banarasi sarees:
- Paithani : Paithani was firstly donned by royal families. It has rich border and pallu. It is used to form golden base through colored threads.
- Patola : Patolas sarees are double ikat sarees. Banarasi weaving has distinctive patterns. Patola patterns incorporated them on fabric to make them Patola Banarasi saree.
- Jamawar : Jamawar saree have paisley motifs and designs on fabric and they have no loose threads on the back.
There are five types of different sarees
- Jangla : This saree is made from colorful threads. In this jangla pattern is spread all over the saree. This is one of the saree which come under banaras brocades.
- Tanchoi : It have multiple wefts and single, double or warp. It has a self – design and there is no float on the back. It has patterns all over the saree.
- Cut work saree : It is less expensive than Jamdani saree. This saree is prepared on plain texture. It is produced by placing warp threads with cotton. The popular motifs are creepers, leaves, jasmine and marigold flowers.
- Tissue saree: It is woven with golden zari . The most popular design used today’s is “woven lotus floating in a radiant pond”. The borders and pallus were self woven paisleys.
- Butidar Sari : Saree is woven with silver, gold and silk. The most popular motifs are Baluchar Butta, Patti Butti, Jhari Butta, Reshem Butti Jhummar Butti, Latiffa Butti, Ashraffi Butti and Angoor Bail.
“Nothing can make a woman look more beautiful than a saree.”